In Fashion

October 8, 2007

Paris Fashion Week – Spring ‘08

The buzz is that Paris has topped all the shows so far, reinforcing its title as a fashion epicenter. The looks were bigger (think volume) and bolder than those in London, New York and Milan.

Here’s Blacks take on the shows so far:

Ann Demeulemeester

For spring, the Demeulemeester woman swings between short skirts and shorts with folded fabric or fringe and dramatic wide-legged pantsuits. The brief skirts and shorts are balanced with long-sleeve masculine jackets and vests. The pantsuits were left unrestrained, however, with feathered vests or at least a feathered scarf. For men, the Dutch designer went with long coats and wide-legged pants for a very straight, stark style, or the heavy trouser, vest, white shirt and arm band combo reminiscent of the late 1800s.

Christian Dior

Dior’s latest collection started with black and white, pinstripes and masculine tailoring and then transferred into pretty dresses and pantsuits inspired by the ’20s, ’30s and ’40s. Dresses were light with ruffles and flounce in natural tones while skirt suits features padded shoulders and sheen.
Evening dresses took on a flapper feel with beading and fringe. There was also lingerie in tiger prints and lace worn under a pinstriped jacket and topped with a bowler hat. The entire collection had a period feel – pretty but not new.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Gaultier’s latest collection is part pirate and part French courtier with camouflage and island wear thrown in. Pirate-like johpurs and tights were topped with elaborate corsets, fringed scarves and pirate hats. Camo was used almost everywhere, but never with a war-like feel. It appeared on belted corsets and leggings, often paired with ruffled trains.
Island skirts in bright colors looked like they were done with glamorous castaways in mind. As is his habit, Gaultier finished the show with pale, exotic brides in translucent layers or crocheted lace.

Lanvin

Lanvin’s latest collection was dominated by a series of beautifully draped frocks in an elegant sweep of colors, including slate gray, teal, orange, ivory and moss. Some dresses were loose and flowing inn toga style while others were kept short and sweet, exposing a shoulder.

Designer Alber Elbaz offered heightened glamour with shimmery dresses, ruffled sleeves and feathered skirts with a 20s feel. More than other big name brands, Lavin offers a sense of luxury and elegance in clothes that actually flatter the female form.

Louis Vuitton

There seemed to be no overarching theme to Marc Jacobs’s spring collection for Louis Vuitton except that it was bizarre. Translucent nurse uniforms covered brightly-colored strapless dresses and rosy pink stockings gave models a feverish look. Jacobs played a lot with layering of translucent and body-hugging fabrics in Easter egg colors but the most surprising elements were the LV handbags. Forget about the staid brown and gold bags of yesteryear – the new line pops with quirky color combinations in a wide variety of shapes.

There were some more classic pieces such as a slim pencil skirts and layered knits, but they were few and far between.

Yohji Yamamoto

All the essential elements were there – black cotton ensembles cut into otherworldy silhouettes and feats of volume balanced with a bare aesthetic – yet Yohji’s latest creations had something new too. Most noticeably, the designer added florals and metallic silver to his dark palette, but he also turned up the volume with ruffled hoop skirts, draping and baggy, low-crotched pants.
He also played with the simple silhouette, such as the just-comfortably-loose black top and pant ensemble with minimal detail in an Asian style. There was definitely a sense that Yohji is spreading his wings but he’s also staying true to his style.

Trends:
• Masculine meets feminine
• Volume, ruffles and fringe
• Vests and layering
• Vintage styling

Sept. 27, 2007

Milan Fashion Week – Spring 2008 RTW

Fashion Week moved to Milan earlier this week where designers pushed their creativity to come up with collections that sometimes broke the mold of their brands. If Paris outshined New York with its freshness, Milan took on London with its imagination.

Here’s Blacks take on the shows so far:

Burberry Prorsum

The buzz about Christopher Bailey’s latest collection for Burberry is that its luxury rock ‘n roll. Short, rouched skirts and dresses in chiffon hugged the body yet gave a sense of femininity with the light colors and soft details, such as ruffles and fringe. Trench coats and dresses were studded with medallions and metal details.

Later in the collection we saw bright, belted A-line dresses in fuchsia and electric blue and belted high-volume frocks. The entire collection seemed more Gucci than Burberry, that doesn’t mean we didn’t appreciate the added sex appeal.

Jil Sander

The audience at Jil Sander’s spring show must have done a triple take at the bright colors, super slim pants and translucent ensembles put together by designer Raf Simons. This was a dramatic turn from the somber attire we’ve seen previously.

Bright bolero jackets were matched with pants that were trim enough to be leggings and models’ breasts and underpants were clearly visible under colorful, flowing dresses. One “top” was merely a wrapping of translucent material that made the model look as though she had spun herself into a curtain.

One had to wonder how sellable these pieces would be to the average Jil Sander customer. Our guess – not very.

Prada

Prada’s latest collection takes an Art Nouveau turn full of colors, patterns and pretty silk-printed pieces. Colored seams squiggled down tops like lines from a drawing and printed ensembles were taken over the edge by patterned tights and fanciful shoes. Lily prints and colors like emerald, purple and yellow gave the line a wood nymph feel, although Prada also used plaids and checks, adding a masculine touch.

Overall the collection was overwhelmed with pattern making no one piece stick out, despite the obvious detailing.

Sept. 19, 2007

London Fashion Week – Spring 2008 RTW

After New York, London’s shows are looking downright daring. There’s always a little more flair to fashion in the British capital and the collections for next spring are no exception. There is always a danger that some designers will go too far, but that’s what makes London Fashion Week fun. Here’s Blacks roundup of the latest shows.

Luella Bartley

After a five year absence, Luella Bartley returned to the London shows with a collection that is a little bit nerdy and a little bit chic. Short, flouncy dresses and skirts in colorful prints were paired with a patent leather jacket, cardigans and small floral capes. Oversized eyeglasses emphasized the geek appeal of some pieces, but the prevalent showing of legs in laced up patent leather boots kept things sexy. Her evening dresses were also short and flirty. One black satin dress, for example, had colored flowers tacked on the bodice and a folded hem that added volume.
Overall, Luella came through with sexy, girly dresses for the full grown woman.

Christopher Kane

As one of the most watched young designers Christopher Kane obviously wanted to show something new. Whether he was successful with his latest designs is still up for debate. Think prairie wear – ruffled, flouncy skirts, western-cut sheer blouses, tiered, ruffled print dresses, ripped jeans and snakeskin prints dominated the show.
There was a light, airy quality to most of the pieces (probably due to all the sheer ruffles) but one could not overlook the dowdiness of the inspiration. The palette featured light blues reminiscent of 80s faded denim, skin tones and gray with yellow accents.

Gareth Pugh

Models with giant cubes on their heads, long black fringe, fetish-style leather coats and black threads masquerading as a shirt made Pugh’s latest collection quite the curiosity. It seems that even the club kids would find many of these pieces unwearable. Two dresses were made entirely from black fringe and buckles, and what can only be described as a bolero jacket jetted a good half foot from the model’s shoulders with fringe streaming down.
It will be interesting to see if fashion’s bad boy will be received as forward thinking or just bad.

Paul Smith Women

Loose and light, Paul Smith’s latest women’s wear collection was dominated by silky fabrics and the tasteful use of spring colors. Shirt dresses in sage and apricot looked comfortable and elegant. Even tailored pieces, like a white short suit and short, feminine suit jackets had a little give. Standout pieces included an elongated ribbed sweater dresses shown with a jacket and scarf and cornflower blue strappy heels which gave a pop to spring colorations.

Jonathon Saunders

Clean lines, body-conscious designs and a neutral palette defined Saunder’s latest collection. There seemed to be no end to his A-line dresses with belted waists in tan and black, yet each one was unique, featuring color blocking or fabric draped from the waist for volume.
The white, Grecian dress with black side panels and a belted waist is red carpet ready, as is his body-hugging beltless version.

Topshop Unique

British retail giant Topshop came out with a beautiful collection for spring that paired individuality with very practical looks. With a palette of deep blue hues and naturals, the line evoked a seaside feel. Breezy, tunic dresses, leather sandals and daytime Grecian gowns had a soft elegance about them. The entire collection was light and flowing, with fabric draped around the body to give it shape.

Trends:
• Light, shimmery fabrics or translucents
• Short dresses and skirts
• White & neutrals
• Ruffles & flounce
• Bright, strappy heels

Sept. 10, 2007

New York Fashion Week – Spring 2008 RTW

Dresses continue to rule the runways for spring. Shown short and flirty or long and ruffled, dresses are the season’s staple. Driving home the point, Proenza Schouler sent only one pair of pants down the runway, and Diane on Furstenberg offered numerous dress styles.

The palette this season is neutral and black with yellow, red and blue muted accents. Gold was also on display, but we are not seeing the same metallic trend that prevailed last season.

Diane von Furstenberg

The main tent at Bryant Park was teeming with DvF fans Saturday night, all of whom wanted to see the latest versions of her signature wrap dress. The designer gave them some of what they wanted in a yellow and blue print wrap and a gold shimmery version, but more interestingly, she showed an evolution of dresses. From a voluptuous, full-length black sheath with a tiny neck strap to a short, sheer printed version with a long, ruffled train, DvF offered dresses for every exotic escape.

Other vacation looks included loose, light weight pants and flowing, printed tops, or a blue V-neck tunic dress with matching head scarf and sandals.

3.1 Philip Lim

Lim showed a sleek collection of evening dresses and elegant day wear in neutrals accented by canary yellow, muted red and navy. His short dresses stole the show, such as the black belted number with a gold panel placed over the front. A skin-hued dress with rows of ruffled panels brought back a ‘30s feel, as did a yellow sheath with a gold and silver chain detailed neckline. Two-tone satin dresses featured a red collar of lace material, or an entire panel in cream.

Lim also showed menswear, such as a neutral short suit with gladiator sandals and red pants, worn low and cuffed at the ankle, in a very clean, casual style.

Proenza Schouler

Short dresses and belts are the look of Proenza Schouler’s spring season. In fact, only one pair of pants was shown on the runway. They shorter and more cinched the dresses were, the better. Vests and military details, such as double rows of buttons and epaulets, also played an important role. The palette was gray, black and gold, and the designers played with black and cream stripes on jackets and tops.

Wrap coats were belted and shown with short, flirty skirts, and heels were strappy or classic and peep-toed.

Ralph Lauren

To celebrate his 40th anniversary in fashion Ralph Lauren put on a runway show to beat all runways shows. The designer drew on his rich archive of looks to create a collection of classic and timeless pieces almost entirely in black and white, with shots of violet, yellow and muted green. Lauren’s refined taste resulted in some beautiful dresses, sleek at the top and flowering into a trail of ruffles, or sleeveless and cut above the knee. Both pant suits and dresses were given a day in the country feel, with cropped riding jackets and top hats. There were many masculine pieces, such as jodhpurs, vests and ties but the cuts emphasized the female body with gathered shoulders and generous hips.

Near the end, Lauren released his tailored restraint, showing ruffled, flowered frocks in pastel yellow and pinks with black gloves. The whole show could be summed up as dressy and dramatic in Lauren’s very American style.

Y-3

For spring, Yohji Yamamoto added primary colors to his usually all-black palette. A bright red asymmetrical skirt, a yellow track suit top and Kelly green sweat pants could have been average if they didn’t have that certain Yohji twist. The sweat pants came with seams and gathered ankles – the first ever dress sweats?

The designer then moved to more familiar territory with slightly oversized monotone pieces made remarkable by unusual shapes and proportions. A black, cowl neck sweatshirt dress featured white stripes along one side and was matched with black and white striped knee-length boots. Silver metallic vests, shown shortened or at average length, added sheen to matte pieces. Overall the collection was what we have come to expect from Yamamoto’s Adidas collaboration: chic sportiness with a dark attitude.

July 8, 2007

Fall 2007 Couture

Paris wrapped up its couture shows this week with the kind of extravagance and flair that few design houses can deliver. Here’s Blacks’s rundown of the best on the runways.

Chanel

At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld kept the palette sophisticated in black, grays, browns and deep reds. Romance was a general theme of couture this season and Lagerfeld’s collection touched on this mood while added a futuristic feel. He used a variety of details on the side seams, which he inserted top to bottom. This included feathers, ruffles, pleats, pearl beading and contrast piping.

Skirts, tops, and dresses were worn over super tight, stretchy, shiny leather pants. On jackets, flair was inserted at the waist to really kick out at the bottom. Emphasis was also on cuffs, with details such as feathers or fur.

Christian Dior

John Galliano once again proved his mastery in the art of couture. Galliano is truly at home when allowed to let his imagination run wild and this season the result was a series of extravagant gowns, straight out of a fairy tale. He left the Japanese influence of last season and journeyed to the heart of Spain. The dresses were fantastical and explosive. He managed to achieve a romantic and old-fashioned fantasy princess feel, without the corniness one might expect.

Christian Dior’s groundbreaking New Look silhouette was reworked into’40s style peplum jackets and full skirt dresses. Dresses had crisp, puffy folds of white fabric and graphic pictures of flowers in black strokes or with blurred, painterly effects. Painting on fabric was used throughout the collection, in different artistic styles, from abstract to more graphic designs.

Silhouettes and details were drawn from historical paintings, yet felt modern with innovative elements and extreme details, keeping with Galliano’s style. He used creative details like embroidery and pleating, as well as printed artwork. The collection was very sophisticated, but still had the fun of make-believe and dress up.

Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix really mixed it up for this collection by using a variety of ethnic elements. Each model looked like a well-dressed doll. Jackets were huge and done in upholstery-like jacquard fabrics or fur, in long, straight, rectangular cuts.

The designer experimented with the black skirt/top/jacket combination, trying different types of fabrics, layers, and embroidery for each look.

Emphasis was put on the collars, with huge feathers or fur. Giant pearl necklaces were the main accessory. This collection was not very body conscious; there was a lot of puff and volume, created either by a mass of fabric or with gathering techniques. Lace and sequins were used throughout the collection, as well as corsetry. The color palette was very dark, with accents of brilliant, bold colors.

Armani Privé

Giorgio Armani went for a loosely interpreted rock and roll theme for his fall 2007 show, using a dark palette with shots of brilliant color. One key look was the nipped waist jacket, with a plunging neckline, paired with a flared, knee-length skirt. The jackets came in a variety of grays, while the skirts stayed black with colored detail. Many of the jackets had pointed shoulders and were accessorized with a thick belt.

Armani also showed a variety of Michael Jackson-style suits, with tight, cropped black pants and skinny ties. He used a lot of iridescent fabrics on items such as high-waisted pants and exaggerated pouf sleeves.

Although the collection was a success overall, it had some disappointing elements, such as an emphasis on the hips, which were exaggerated into a weird unflattering shape.

Elie Saab

Elie Saab’s fall 2007 collection made a nod to the silver screen with its palette of silver, grays and black. He choose sheer layers of fabric with flair, using beading, fabric gathering, jagged hems and long, loose tiers. He played with asymmetrical dresses with one (sometimes super puffy) sleeve and used a variety of embroidery on jackets and dresses.

Details included big fur cuffs and absolutely huge puffy, sheer sleeves. The oversized sleeves were used throughout the collection, and sometimes done in a different material than the rest of the dress.

Some of the dresses were reminiscent of the disco era in that they were loose and flowing with sparkles and cinched waists. While this collection lacks the extravagance of some other couture collections, there were a lot of beautiful and fun pieces for extravagant evenings.

-Reporting by Liina Gruener

July 2, 2007

Paris Menswear Spring 2008

Next springtime in Paris the designers will be suiting us up for combat. Military influences continue to thrive in the season’s collections, with jackets and modified cargo pants. The palette is darker than we saw in Milan, where white and washed colors ruled.

Here’s a rundown of the shows so far:

John Galliano

War was clearly Galliano’s theme for spring, albeit a glamorous, futuristic war in which soldiers wear body paint, printed leggings and gas masks. The designer used camouflage as a springboard for exploring other prints such as black and white stripes and swirls on combat pants and jackets.

Galliano’s focus wasn’t just on Western war gear -- he also explored Castro-like military wear and Eastern headdresses on bearded, brooding models. Although military cuts have become old hat this season, Galliano took a turn with bright colors and surprising elements, such a pink, printed boxer-like shorts paired with a flak jacket.

John Paul Gaultier

Once again, Gaultier pulled off a truly bizarre and gender bending collection that included a silver metallic wrap skirt, split up to the crotch, and an Abbaesque costume of white sailor pants, suspenders,and a ’70s silk shirt unbuttoned to the waist.

More successful were his military-style denim suits with silver or gold sheen, and his riding pants and boots matched with a short jacket.

His denim pants will probably be the most sellable items in the collection, given their metallic treatments and ankle lengths, especially after all the jodhpurs we’ve seen.

Lanvin

Next spring’s Lanvin man is so light and casual his whole wardrobe resembles silk pajamas. Flowing pants with a tie for a belt, and an untucked shirt with piping around the pocket kicked off the nightwear look. As the show progressed, garments took on a slightly more structured shape – vests were layered under loose jackets and slim shirts were tucked in – but pants stayed loose.

Shorts were also present – and cuffed far above the knee – along with dress socks and shiny black dress shoes. The palette was mostly natural with light, silvery blues and grays and black for formal wear.

Louis Vuitton

LV’s vision of spring is sleek, simple and cornflower blue. Short, fitted pants, long shorts and simple blue tees were matched with blue sandals and dress shoes. The aesthetic is clean and crisp, in simple, unadorned cuts.

After the blues, LV moved into naturals and a muted marigold on dress pants and vests, but the silhouette stayed slim. All of these pieces were given life with shimmering fabrics and breezy accessories, such as scarves and the sandals that are destined to be the look of the season.

Number (N)ine

Takahiro Miyashita’s latest collection mixes the diverse influences of militarism, religion and street grunge. A flowing, three-quarter length jacket with epaulets was shown with short pants, buttoned at the calf, boots and an oversized wooden rosary. The palette was black, gray and beige, but the dark mood was softened by the lightness of the fabric which looked from afar like brushed silk.

Monastic shorts and long-sleeve shirts were shown in black and gray stripes, again with the oversized rosaries that constituted the only adornments of the collection.

While not unpleasing, the line stuck to the same fabric, cuts and silhouettes over and over again. A little color and diversity could have breathed life into an otherwise ho-hum show.

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji shed some of his dark layers this season to pull off a combat-inspired collection of designer cargo pants, military coats and antiwar messages. Cargo pants featured not just pockets, but a zippered layer over the calf and suspenders. Coats were emblazoned with white doves or messages such as “Feel Like Being Home.”

Combat wear aside, the designer continued to dabble in his signature black flowing pants and long coats, but this season he choose lighter fabrics and less complicated cuts.

Trends:
• Military jackets
• Blue, black & gray palette
• Metallics
• Short pants
• Modified cargo pants
• Sandals
• Boots
• Scarves

June 27, 2007

Milan Menswear Spring 2008

The men’s wear shows kicked off in Milan over the weekend, bringing us a glimpse of next spring’s polished looks and subtle details. Think lighter than this year, in both weight and color. Here’s a quick roundup of the major shows so far.

For continuing coverage of all the spring shows, bookmark Blacks’s InFashion.

Burberry Prorsum

For most of us Burberry evokes a clean and classic feel, but that may soon change. Designer Christopher Bailey’s new spring 2008 collection is brightly colored and somewhat futuristic in its fabrication. Shiny, dropped crotch pants are paired with primary colored tops and military-style jackets. Some shirts and jackets are shown in a see-through plastic fabrication, shown in hot pinks and blues. Pants are short and sweaters are long and droopy. Gold is another theme, shown as a sequin jacket, a gold lame shirt or a gold snakeskin coat.

Bailey has taken a strange turn this season and we’re eager to see if Burberry fans follow suit.

Calvin Klein Collection

Calvin Klein’s spring vision is marked by a beautiful washed palette and extreme minimalism that brings with it pieces such as collarless shirts and leather ankle boots completely void of ornamentation. Imagine watered down pastels – in the faintest of blue, peach and beige – on pants, suits and jackets that are fitted and marked with subtle details, such as a thin lapel or a necktie almost completely hidden in a front panel of fabric on a dress shirt.

The scoop neck tee and comfortable tracksuit pant were probably the most iconic pieces, in their minimalism and athleticism. After all, these are two of the season’s most dominant themes.

Roberto Cavalli

Hail the European lounge lizard with his animal prints, metallic jackets, colorful, pocketed pants and leather loafers. Cavalli’s newest collection is a bold departure from the reserved lines we’ve seen from other designers this season. There were some outfits that went too far – yellow cargo pants with a yellow and brown dyed blouse and orange loafers, for example – but most pieces were rock and roll enough to be pulled off.

Dolce & Gabbana

Eyeliner, scarves and swagger underscored D&G’s take on urban combat gear. Although the show started off with a series of dapper tuxedos (short lapels and skinny ties), we were soon in an urban desert. Skin-tight cargo pants and shirts and jackets with epaulets, zippers and other military motifs proceeded barely-there camouflage swimwear.

Near the end of the show, D&G showed shorts and button-down shirts is wildly clashing prints that seemed out of place with the rest of the collection. In accessories, the team emphasized bulky natural-colored scarves, man sandals and sunglasses, which could easily become a staple for the season.

Emporio Armani

We have two words for you and they’re not good: parachute pants. Armani is all about the pants this season, showing parachute pants with buttons along the slim-fitting calves, and wide-legged pants slit open at the ankle. These designer trousers sat high on the waist and were shown with substantial, buckled belts.

Armani also showed a variety of natural colored soft jackets that are sure to sell, but their subtle cut and soft colors were overtaken by dramatic bottoms.

The designer did hit the mark in terms of palette, however, choosing lots of dove whites and soft grays, as well as beautiful washed colors.

Gucci

Forget fall colors– Gucci’s gone stark white for spring. Slim white suits were paired with black collared shirts and simple white leather dance shoes. Checkered suits and pants were another dominant theme, worn golf style with a hat or rock style, with a leather jacket.

The best outfits were chic urban looks with a punk edge, in black, white and red. Black leather pants were shown with a tee featuring silver graphics, and white high-tops with red trim.

Slim pants in orange, yellow or Kelly green also offered a refreshing mix when shown with leather motorcycle jackets in silver, black and candy apple red.

Marni

Minimal, somber, and dare we say geeky? The Marni man is pensive this spring, dressed mostly in grays and navy blue, in simple and unadorned pieces. Boxy shorts and tops are shown with sandals, and sometime black socks. There were a few black and white patterned tops and bright blue shorts, but otherwise the collection stayed in its gray palette. Although Marni clearly hit on this season’s minimal theme, the subtle details were just too subtle.

Prada

After Burberry, Prada looks downright somber this season, but in truth the brand shined with its fine tailoring and masculine accessories – even if the collection was mostly gray. The show opened with a one-buttoned, gray jacket, shown with matching single pleat pants and chunky gladiator sandals, in a look of minimal elegance. Then Prada cycled into sleeker looks, fitted pants and knits until we reached a strange peak of large prints and ’70s cuts. Large black and blue checked trousers strutted out with a matching short-sleeve shirt and aviator-style glasses.

The finish was in the accessories, with large leather cuffs featuring antique watches, a line of colorful eyewear and those enviable Spartan sandals.

Versace

The new Versace man is pared down. He’s trim and understated, minimal in buttons, collars and colors. After a parade of handsome clothing in white, black, navy and gray, you’d almost do a double take when seeing Donatella Versace appear onstage. “What happened to bright, the loud, the Versace?” you might ask. Apparently she’s taken with one-button, tailored suits, light gray suede shoes and short, white leather jackets with little detail.

That doesn’t mean that she completely threw out the brand’s signature eye-catching style. There were flashes of candy apple red, most notably on a shiny leather jacket shown with white trousers. There was also the anomaly of sleeveless, cowl neck tops, which are risky -- even for a Versace man.

Trends:
• White suits
• Washed colors
• Skinny ties
• Short lapels
• Gladiator sandals
• Military details
• Tailored trousers
• Collarless shirts

May 8, 2007

Intermezzo Collections

ENK kicked off its Intermezzo women’s apparel trade show in New York today, giving us a glimpse of the trends and designers who will be shaping the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons.

The Trends

The spring trends we identified earlier – short and sexy with plenty of sequins and silk – are striking a cord with buyers looking to feed their fashionable, young customers.

Collection Affection

Hot lines included Isli, Cynthia Steffe, Cynthia Vincent, Vince, Tony Cohen, and Trina Turk due to their emphasis on dresses, metallics and silk.

The strong dress and skirt trend is stealing demand from denim. As a result, denim vendors were left with empty booths.

Resort Report

Resort collections looked boring compared to this season’s sexy trends, leaving some buyers to look to younger designers to fill their orders.

April 27, 2007

Spring Style

With the weather warming up, Blacks takes a look at what the fashionistas will be wearing this season.

Sporty Looks

There’s a strong athletic influence to casual men’s wear this spring, such as striped polos, nylon jackets, tees and colorful trainers. Top designers like Prada, Gaultier and Yamamoto are showing sporty street looks in high-quality materials.

For women, the athletic look includes more leggings (striped like Marni’s), and finely crafted ballerina workout wear (Vera Wang.)

Au Natural

Organics are also in for men this spring, as environmentally safe fabrics and dyes bring a down-to-earth look to daytime dressing. Hot lines include toned-down tees from Edun and light-weight jackets and pants from New York’s Organic.

Lightweight knitwear, such as Inhabit’s cotton-linen V-Neck, warms up the eco-friendly casual look.

Short Story

In big cities, short dresses and even shorter skirts are the look of the season. Legs take prominence in Prada’s barely-there satin skirt and Lagerfeld’s silk Lycra briefs.

For more modest gals, knee-length frocks are being shows in every variation. Big prints and sleek monotone dresses are the life of the party, shown with high, chunky heels.

March 22, 2007

New York Notes

Goyard Girls

Spring is officially here but new Yorkers have yet to make a wardrobe change, as we are seeing the same “uniforms” that dominated last season. Metallic shoes and bags, baby doll dresses, tights and skinny jeans are still the fashionistas’ favorites.

Our style sleuth can barely take another look at an initialed Goyard bag or a Tory Burch ballet flat. We are seeing a few fresh influences, however. The trouser jean is taking on its skinny rival, and even dedicated skinny denim brand JBrand Jeans is dabbling in a wide-legged version.

Softer spring colors, such as white, cream and yellow, are popping against the background of black and gray and we are hoping that more spring tones start to emerge.

Thom & Tom

In men’s wear, there is a lot to look forward to this spring. Thom Browne is unveiling his new line for Brooks Brothers called Black Fleece. The designer, known for his signature cropped-suit silhouette, has reportedly blended the tradition of Brooks Brothers with his own unique style.

Black Fleece will be priced at the high-end of Brooks’ price scale and is due out this fall.

And then there is the matter of the other Tom – Ford, that is. The former Gucci designer is expected to open his first Tom Ford store on New York’s Madison Ave. this spring. The store, which will feature his luxury men’s wear and accessories, was scheduled to open last year but was delayed due to permit issues.

March 6, 2007

Paris Fashion Week

Patrons of Paris fashion week are now exhausted, having traipsed to remote, out of the way locations to see gems like Véronique Branquinho or from having watched breathtaking (and nerve-racking) shows like Victor and Rolf’s. Occasionally, their hard-won exhaustion was rewarded, however. Here Blacks gives you rundown of the best on the runways.

Akris

Clearly inspired by architectural arrangements, designer Albert Kriemler pulled off a great fall runway. His was definitive of the trends. Instead of seeing them spread out in every different collection, one gathered a sense of the fall fashion microcosm by seeing his show. Black, white, purple, gray, metallic and tan were seen throughout the runway (a blessed departure from the recurrent Black & White). His high turtlenecks, chunky knits and voluminous outerwear made one pine for fall, though we just recently emerged from it.

• His dresses were shot through with lines of gorgeous silvery metallic lines
• Ankle boots were seen on nearly every model
• Skinny pants, hats, gloves and high-necked ensembles were all big trends seen in his collection

Balenciaga

While this show was controversial in its street-wear simplicity, there was definitely a lot of appeal to it at the same time. Click back through older Balenciaga shows and you will see a lot of slender silhouettes, starkly contrasting colors, and little if any bright patterns. This all changed with Nicolas Ghesquière's latest collection which is colorful, young and even a little bit "chav." Pushing the envelope with the elite Parisian crowds, Ghesquière dared to put his models in jackets and khakis. The stand-out item on this runway was the shoes that looked almost as if they were constructed from patent leather Legos.

• Daring fur collars upped the price point of his simple military style jackets
• Checkered and patterned scarves were tucked in layers around the models necks
• An almost Pucci-esque vibe is given off by the elaborate and brightly colored patterns found in most of the outfits the models wore
• Striped sports pants contributed an odd pairing to the cropped jackets and patterned tops
• Dramatically belted waists gave the models exaggerated and bizarre silhouettes

Celine

Her fall collection rippled with a “dominant female “vibe. Her models looked strong but still feminine, her clothes were structured but not severe, and it was all downright beautiful but still edgy.

• Outfits were accompanied by unusual leather newsboy caps that fastened under the chin.
• Glossy leather skinny pants helped give this look a sexy dominatrix vibe
• Heavy, black Edie Sedgwick-like liner gave the impression that these looks are better for nighttime, though some of the dresses and coats would work as classy business attire (see how finely she walks that line?)
• Plain gray and herringbone wide-legged pants were given gorgeous silhouelltes when paired with cinched belts
• Leather gloves and animal prints were a reoccurring theme in this collection
• Again, black and white were the predominant colors.

Hussein Chalayan

Chalayan is a designer that critics can never pigeon-hole – he has always consciously approached fashion as an art form more than most of his peers. His pieces are always highly innovative, and this show was no different. Always socially and environmentally aware, his show had an unusual theme of Environment vs. Technology. His show began with a storm “whirling out of a central podium” (style.com), and his models wore LED lit clothing and glowing head-lamps. His inspired creations never played it safe. The dresses and coats were stiff and beautiful. They appeared to be efforts to make our personal space more concrete. If you are expecting a blustery fall/winter, look no further than this collection. These clothes are designed to protect and shield you from the elements – in the chicest way possible.

• Intensely glossy and reflective tights/leggings made the models legs look like they were made of plastic
• High-collared dresses and high collar necklace constructions took the place of the traditional turtleneck
• Huge hoods, attached to dresses and coats framed the faces of the models.
• Tortoiseshell Lucite, severe stilettos, stripes and contrast whip-stitching were all subtle details that are sure to catch on for fall

Collette Dinigan

The contrast of macabre models (who, with the help of makeup, appear a little undead) contrast nicely with this gorgeous collection. Slouchy scarves and knee-socks over tights gave a hipster edge to this otherwise prim and proper collection. This collection proved a great comeback for Australian designer Collette Dinigan.

• Again, oversized berets were popular.
• Gold sheath dresses and beautiful vintage-style coats were a popular look
• Bright splashes of teal made their way onto this runway, a color not usually seen for fall collections

Christian Dior

This show was a Paris Fashion Week favorite, and for good reason. A breathtaking display of neon colors, voluminous fox fur sleeves, draped fabrics, painted-on expressive eyebrows and absurdly tall straw hats had John Galliano mixing his metaphors. What was ladylike was at the same time edgy, and a landscape of gorgeous details opened up to the observer. The pink tiered skirt, the elaborately wrapped fuchsia silk top, the enormous fox fur sleeves, orange ruffled dress, sequins, bows and muted color arrangements were truly inspired.
But If you aim to imitate Galliano’s creations for your fall wardrobe then remember: theatrics are on display here. These operatic, arabesque dresses will be heart-stopping to the average onlooker. Wear with caution!

• Lime green, fuchsia, cobalt blue and tangerine were amongst the brighter colors on display
• Voluminous fur outfits look to be inspired by Russian princesses

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen is not usually known for consistency, and this collection is no different. The collection is all over the place. Although claiming to have a “pagan” theme (evidenced by the pentagram drawn on the stage), his fall collection actually ran the gamut from mod ‘60s attire, to gothic/pagan dresses, to futuristic ensembles, to militaristic looks (complete with scary masks). It can’t be said that a singular theme held true here. Many were confused by this odd display of seemingly clashing looks, but the McQueen style held fast. Though it was a very mixed show, it still came off with a bang.

• Bandage-style dresses that opened into voluminous pleated skirts were a key look
• Long straight hair and overdone, Edie Sedgwick eye makeup brought out the models inner “witch”
• Glittering goddess dresses and moon emblems stuck out as attempts at the pagan, but still held enough glamour to appeal to the consumer
• Vibrant patterns laced with shimmering gold were found on many of the dresses

Rue de Mail

Admittedly, this collection was off to a boring start, but picked up steam after the first 15 models. A hint of hope is seen when the drab black attire is broken up by a slash of bright red found in a wide belt. Some truly unusually shaped clothing begins to unfold for the audience as we watch with trepidation – can designer Martine Sitbon pull this off? Our patience pays off as we see voluminous garments, odd shoulder straps on creamy bubble dresses, ruffles in all the right places, and enormous swirly flower details on the later dresses. This attention to detail gives the enveloping sense that Sitbon has not lost her touch.

• Copper, cream and black were the dominant colors in this collection
• One of the best new trends for fall emerges in this collection: black tights with wildly bright-colored close-toed patent shoes

Tao

Comme de Garçons has always attracted the best of the best in upcoming designers and Tao Kurihara is no exception. In her second year of designing Tao, her own brand niche at the Comme de Garçons house, she has come off with a truly unusual fall runway. Typically, the “sporty” look is saved for the spring runway, but she has pulled of sporty for fall by adding warm layers to the shorts and tennis dresses she sent down the runway.

• Contrasting black and pink was a big trend for this collection
• Tao brought a harsh severity to what would otherwise be a playful collection by having her models painted with heavy black lipstick
• Her pink frocks were akin to ‘50s aprons, and worn over plain polos
• In an utterly strange mix of styles, Tao’s fall 2007 could best be described as “’50s mom meets androgynous tuxedoes and tennis attire”

Louis Vuitton

Marc Jacobs serves up delectable monochrome palettes inspired by French and Dutch designs. The looks are luxurious and chic, and utterly étourdissant. The tailored accents on each garment brought a sense of structure to the collection. There were no surprises here: just a well-rounded, well-designed collection that’s sure to be a consumer crowd-pleaser.

• Oversized berets were seen on nearly every model
• Pants were scarce, but skirts and dresses were big in this ladylike collection
• All pants and skirts were made with gorgeous shiny, bronze or metallic materials
• Black & white were the main contrasting colors, but everything else was in matching colors (red dress + red skirt + red shoes)
• Cardigans, voluminous dresses and skirts and wide peter-pan lapels appealed to our ‘50s vintage-loving sensibilities

Yohji Yamamoto

Yamamoto is typically known for creations that are far-removed from the rest of runway trends, but this show proved to be a shocker. The first model to head down the runway drew gasps from the audience. She was clad from head-to-toe in a monogram pattern that was uncomfortably similar to Louis Vuitton’s iconic monogram. Other models came out with this pattern scattered along their attire. What is Yamamoto up to, the crowd wondered. Is there an unspoken rivalry with fellow Japanese native Takashi Murakami? Was this not-so-subtle commentary on the widespread commercialization of high fashion? At any rate, Yamamoto recovered. By the latter half of the show, his models were wearing avant-garde dresses whose tiers and layers and volume made the models look like macabre cupcakes.

• All models wore elaborate head scarves, hats and head gear - a look that has been very popular for the fall 2007 runway
• Huge Doc Marten combat boots accompanied his heavy dresses giving a quirky ‘90s vibe to the whole show
• Cropped glossy jackets were also popular - a look that was vaguely reminiscent of Fendi’s 2006 fall runway
• Black and white dominated this runway show, with small splashes of oxblood red and neon blue spattered throughout

- Reporting by Grace Marzioli

February 24, 2007

Milan Fashion Week

As Italy’s fashion capital wraps up its fashion week, reviews have ranged from breathtaking to banal. Here, Blacks takes a look at the shows everyone is talking about.

Giorgio Armani

For fall 2007, Giorgio Armani sticks to his signature style, but with modern touches. He showed a great variety of daywear looks, including suits and dresses, all running in the same vein. He played with mixing textures within an outfit, like a crocodile jacket with a jersey skirt. For evening, he put the emphasis on sparkles with a mix of sequins, crystals, and silver.

• All models wore sequined skull cap and flats
• Tulip skirts with lots of texture: velvet, crocodile, silk, mohair, ruched jersey
• Plush fur coats
• Longer bubble skirts
• Very neutral palette of grays, nude, light browns
• Skirts and dresses with draping at hem
• Black, shiny leather
• Black and white stripes

Burberry Prorsum

The trench coat is always the focus at Burberry and this season Christopher Bailey created a variety of great new trenches all based on medieval armor. The coats successfully represented armor while looking completely modern and wearable. He brought a new cut that really accentuated the waist, with giant collars folding over the chest and shoulders, and puffy lantern sleeves. It’s an interesting shape, hitting on the belted waist trend while still offering a different silhouette than we’ve seen on the runways so far this season.

• Two sleeves: one very long and straight, based on the gauntlet gloves, the other the puffed and lantern shaped
• Puffed panels, some quilted; big collars
• Fabrics that convey strength such as shiny, stiff leather embedded with metal-like squares
• Metallic colors: gold, grayish silver, black, muted bronze, army green, gray
• Knit dresses with emphasis on shoulders and sleeves
• A small section of large jacquard in a dull sheen for jackets
• Flared, quilted leather gloves
• Gold hardware

Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli never strays very far from his comfort zone of super sexy and glamorous, and his North African safari collection for fall 2007 was no exception. There was safari-style day wear: khaki pants, white button-up shirts and floppy safari hats. The dresses had a more tribal feel and were sheer and flowing with light patterns. Other dresses were glam ‘40s style in shiny cheetah or metallics.

• Khaki jodhpurs with buttons up the side of the calf
• Low cut, sheer, flowing disco dresses in light prints, gathered at waist
• Palette of white, cheetah, black, tan, yellow, and gold
• Travel suits and business suits, with a sheen
• Leather, metallic, shiny materials

Dolce & Gabbana

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s fall collection borrowed elements from domination, with a futuristic twist. Black metal corsets cinched the waist of almost every model, while shiny, futuristic fabrics were bunched and puffed around the body. Underneath all the showmanship, however, there were great day wear pieces and fun dresses for a night out.

• Shiny gold and silver foil dresses
• Black corsets and corset belts used throughout
• Accents of silver chains, metal studs and fur
• Voluminous hoods and sleeves and sheer fabric
• Masses of puffed up tulle layered over dresses or jackets
• Shiny or iridescent pants cut wide-legged or skinny
• Glittery evening gowns and long layered dresses

Fendi

Out of all the luxury brands showing in Milan, Fendi was the leader in fur. Karl Lagerfeld consistently offers a recap of every trend for the season and this year fur coats were the highlight. Lagerfeld mixed different types of furs: skinny or chunky black and white stripes, shaggy cream, brown/black calico, and a ribbed short hair version. Leather also made its presence known, both in jackets and daywear.

• Fur everywhere
• Leather jackets, skirts, and dresses
• Geometric fur patchwork jacket
• Tulip sleeves with buttons up the inner seam, or a flared short sleeve
• Belted waists with huge gem buckles or a big gold Fendi “F”

Gucci

Frida Gianni’s fall 2007 collection for Gucci was inspired by Lee Miller and the 1940s. Elements of aviation ran through the collection, such as a leather bomber jacket with an oversized fur collar. The line also had elements of menswear in the use of colors in materials, as well as ties. The overall look was sharp and polished.

• Menswear elements give a tough edge
• Sophisticated palette of gray, raspberry, navy, burnt red
• Leather bomber jacket with giant fur collar
• Sleeves were long and narrow with puffed shoulders
• Print of flowers on blouses and dresses
• Use of fur as trim or for jackets
• Gloves, as in many collections
• Long, straight dresses

Marni

Designer Consuelo Castiglioni mixed hi-tech elements with a cute, light silhouette and bright colors to create a collection for fall 2007 that is whimsical and sporty. Even though some elements of the collection looked as if they came from a science fiction cartoon, they were in no way gimmicky, but instead wearable and lovely. The unique look of Marni continues to move forward with each season.

• Layering of T-shirts, tunics, and shirt/skirt combos over turtlenecks - always shown with tights
• Futuristic palette of gray, silver, black, and tan, with bright accents
• Clean, simple shapes for silhouette, slightly rounded
• White webbed belts gave each look the techno edge
• Plush fur, on sleeves or garment
• Color blocking with neon
• PVC for skirts

Moschino

Rosella Jardini focused on anti-war messages and the innocence of the 1960s in her fall 2007 collection for Moschino. The collection featured a lot of gold and cream combinations, offering many wearable pieces with a fun Moschino twist. Although a very girly collection, it also had street flair thanks to huge graphic prints reading “Mochino Is Love” or “Ready, Set, Love,” fitting with the show’s anti-war theme.

• Innocent 1960s flavor
• Gold and cream color combinations
• Gold pinafore with bow at neck and strips of gathered material
• Bubble silhouette fur coat in cream and tan
• Rows of mini fringe with very mini cardigan
• Cinched waist shirt paired with an A-line skirt
• Gloves and lots of bubble sleeves
• Oversized graphic type used as print

Prada

Miuccia Prada said it best herself when she described her fall 2007 collection as “simple but strange.” The collection did appear to be simple, but there was actually a lot going on. She played with a very interesting material that had a spongy, dense, textured appearance and gave the line a very futuristic look. Prada used for suits and other classic garments like cardigans.

• Masculine influence
• Palette of orange, purple, brown, yellow, gray
• Long, straight silhouette
• Slits for sleeves
• Creamy synthetic looking fur
• Gray knit suits and long cardigans
• Two-tone, knee-high socks
• Black to brown ombre effect on textured fabric
• Play with synthetic looking materials and colors

Emilio Pucci

Matthew Williamson continues to look to the Pucci archives for his inspiration, while striving to move the brand forward. This season, there was a 1970s feel to the collection, which is familiar territory for the house that defined the psychedelic print. This collection was strong for Williamson, and gave us what we expect from Pucci: an interjection of color and fun into the season.

• Bright, creamy tangerine orange with dusty rose and lilac
• Triangular color blocking and big geometric prints
• Big fluffy fur coats in orange, purple or natural
• Psychedelic dresses: short and printed
• Graphic objects like squares at the neckline
• Seventies ethnic accents, like trims of fringe and Native American style prints
• Glittery, fringy sweaters
• Monochromatic suits

-Reporting by Liina Gruener

February 21, 2007

New York Notes

Shopping The Stores

Blacks’s intrepid style mavens took to the chilly streets of New York on Wednesday to shop the stores and report back on the hottest Big Apple trends. Here’s what they found:

• The Street Look: all black with boots
• Hot Sportswear: Porsche activewear for Adidas & Stella McCartney’s soft and springy Adidas line in all shades of mauve (some seemed mauve inspired)
• The Tee: Monarchy’s dark T-shirts with metallic prints
• The Jean: black skull jeans by J & Company and Citizen
• The Hat: G-Star’s black fedora
• Cheap & Chic: Japan-based UNIQLO’s $38 jeans
• Prada’s Latest: painted knitwear; the new short or "high-waisted brief"); dressy purple nylon bags with matching satin heels
• Yohji: Dark & cool as always

Post-Fashion Week Wrap

With New York Fashion Week now over, buyers are going to market with the image of short dresses over turtlenecks dancing in their heads. This was definitely the look of the season. Dresses in general will be in high demand as Coterie begins this week, as will knitwear and anything trimmed in fur.

We cannot emphasize enough the importance of knitwear for fall, and buyers are jumping at it! Turtlenecks and long, chunky knits are huge, and they are eating up some of the market for outerwear.

In coats, the short bomber jacket and the trench coat are the fall ’07 favorites, and designers seem to be emphasizing their past specialties.

Metallics are another seasonal must-have, shown on everything from jackets to shoes, with silver outshining gold.

As for bottoms, skinny pants and boots are here to stay, though we did see some wide-legged trousers at the shows, which will be perfect for more mature and professional customers.

Last week’s DNA show gave us a glimpse at what the more contemporary designers are up to and one stood out in particular. The Joseph line impressed us with its clean cuts and dark colorations. This line is at a price point a little higher than bridge, emphasizing short jackets, skinny pants and knitwear.

Tune in next week when New York Notes will give you a wrap of the Coterie show and the lowdown on what’s hot and what’s not in the Big Apple.

- Reporting by Ashley Pruitt

February 19, 2007

London Fashion Week

London wrapped up its Fashion Week over the weekend, saving some of the best for last. Here’s Blacks’s take on the closing shows.

Jens Laugesen

Working in an entirely black palette with occasional white accents, Jens Laugesen returned to LFW with a successful collection sure to offer his customers many wearable pieces for winter. His look is simple and classic, yet strong. Some tops were slightly Victorian, with ruffled necklines and bib detail. The silhouette was long and lean, or A-line from the waist.

• Black palette
• Nipped waist with thick waistband and full skirt
• Cape jackets
• Turtlenecks
• Slightly extended cap sleeves or wide elbow-length sleeves
• Some play with overlaying tulle on tops, sleeves, and dresses

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs took his Marc show to London this fall, in commemoration of the opening of his newest Marc by Marc Jacobs store. The move did nothing to hamper the designer’s ability to turn out a flood of adorable looks that his customer will be able to work with this winter. Ice skating seemed to be the main theme, and the look was very youthful and nostalgic. As always, there were tons of dresses for the girly girl. Jacobs also hit upon the rounded silhouette that’s gained popularity this season.

• Palette of brown, gray & navy, with use of plaids
• Dresses and jackets hit at mid-thigh
• Fair isle sweaters, knit dresses and vests
• Wide pants belted high at the waist
• Use of tiers, for dresses or jackets
• Elbow -length gloves & fur hats

Ashish N Soni

One of the most colorful, and definitely the most glittery show so far this season was Ashish. With bows that appeared to be blown up like balloons on the waist, and dresses that shimmered from head to toe, these clothes are not made for a wallflower. These pieces can be seen for miles, especially when hit by the sun. There was nothing groundbreaking about the shape; this collection was clearly about color and shimmer.

• Bright, rainbow palette
• Print of multi-colored blocks used on jacket or skirt
• Range of dresses in shiny, glittery materials
• Oversized bows as belts
• Black lace tights layered over neon tights

Central St. Martins

The Central St. Martins’ M.A. show is a great opportunity to see raw creativity unhampered by salability. LFW and the fashion world in general are full of St. Martin grads, most recently Christopher Kane, the poster child of the new generation of London designers. This year, 18 students got to show their collections, and the winner was Russian Tatiana Katinova, with a collection of sleek black and white daywear featuring rounded padding on the shoulders and hips.

Pavel Ivancic showed wit in comically big ruffles, while Maria Francesca Pepe sewed giant stuffed silver dollars into her garments. Knitwear designer Annalisa Dunn created mash-ups of various stripes and solid in a black, white, and gray palette that turned into dresses, hoods, and scarves. Kryzsztof Strozyna’s collection of tan and khaki pieces featured oversized, rounded shoulders and was accented by huge, chunky, black jewelry.

The collections ranged from avant-garde to gimmicky, but as always the St. Martins show excited us about the future of fashion.

For more London Fashion Week reviews, see the Feb. 14 and Feb. 17 archive entries.

-Reporting by Liina Gruener

February 17, 2007

London Fashion Week

With London Fashion Week almost at a close, Blacks takes a look at the city's best and brightest.

Giles Deacon

Deacon’s fall collection can be best described as a fantastical journey through his own interpretation of the natural world. Although parts of the collection didn’t fit together, there‘s certainly some amazing sights to see. One floor-length dress in particular was an incredible feat of construction. One dress featured layered fans resembling fish fins and tails, and the model truly looked like a creature from the sea. There was tremendous play with techniques for creating volume – from gigantic knits, to bushels of spikes and curls.

• Extremely chunky knits
• Brown to black ombre effects
• Puff sleeves on simple silhouettes
• Leather, fur, feathers
• Rich fall earth tones
• Nature prints

Nathan Jenden

Diane Von Furstenburg’s protégé returned to his roots in London, with a collection full of pretty, wearable frocks. Jenden focused on fun party dresses, almost like a modern rework of the classic ball gown or prom dress.

• Material with a sheen
• Black palette with use of dark gray or navy
• Fun evening dresses and tight black suits
• Full skirt with layers or gathering

Preen

This fall, Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thorton of Preen looked to Claude Montana for inspiration. Their look certainly referenced designs from the late 80s, but with a decidedly futuristic edge. There was something very fashion-forward about the cut and shape of the clothes. Rather than copying, they took the look to a whole new level.

• Short dresses and jackets of the same length
• Tan, shocking pink, gray, dark plum
• Monochromatic ensembles
• Draped hoods
• Soft, bubbly shapes

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh brought a new aspect to his fall collection: wearability. While this collection retained his entirely unique futuristic vision, there were pieces that could be worn on the street. Of course, he kept the crazy art pieces, but it wouldn’t be a Gareth Pugh show without them.

• Pugh’s consistent black, shiny, and clear components
• Meticulously worked leather dresses and jackets
• Shingling-like tiers of fabric
• Oversized leather cowl neck collar

Jonathon Saunders

Jonathon Saunders put forth a collection that was modern, bold, and extremely flattering to the body. Working with vertical seams and color blocking, Saunders gave the collection an athletic edge, yet it was decidedly glamorous. The designer deserves credit for giving us something new to see.

• Athletic feel
• Color blocking
• Graphic prints
• Ombre effects
• Emphasis on vertical seams
• Long, lean silhouette

For more Fashion Week reviews, see the Feb. 14 archive entry.

-Reporting by Liina Gruener