Blacks In Fashion
Luxury Apparel
« Sept. 27, 2007 |
Paris Fashion Week – Spring ‘08
The buzz is that Paris has topped all the shows so far, reinforcing its title as a fashion epicenter. The looks were bigger (think volume) and bolder than those in London, New York and Milan.Here’s Blacks take on the shows so far:
Ann Demeulemeester
For spring, the Demeulemeester woman swings between short skirts and shorts with folded fabric or fringe and dramatic wide-legged pantsuits. The brief skirts and shorts are balanced with long-sleeve masculine jackets and vests. The pantsuits were left unrestrained, however, with feathered vests or at least a feathered scarf. For men, the Dutch designer went with long coats and wide-legged pants for a very straight, stark style, or the heavy trouser, vest, white shirt and arm band combo reminiscent of the late 1800s.
Christian Dior
Dior’s latest collection started with black and white, pinstripes and masculine tailoring and then transferred into pretty dresses and pantsuits inspired by the ’20s, ’30s and ’40s. Dresses were light with ruffles and flounce in natural tones while skirt suits features padded shoulders and sheen.Evening dresses took on a flapper feel with beading and fringe. There was also lingerie in tiger prints and lace worn under a pinstriped jacket and topped with a bowler hat. The entire collection had a period feel – pretty but not new.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Gaultier’s latest collection is part pirate and part French courtier with camouflage and island wear thrown in. Pirate-like johpurs and tights were topped with elaborate corsets, fringed scarves and pirate hats. Camo was used almost everywhere, but never with a war-like feel. It appeared on belted corsets and leggings, often paired with ruffled trains.Island skirts in bright colors looked like they were done with glamorous castaways in mind. As is his habit, Gaultier finished the show with pale, exotic brides in translucent layers or crocheted lace.
Lanvin
Lanvin’s latest collection was dominated by a series of beautifully draped frocks in an elegant sweep of colors, including slate gray, teal, orange, ivory and moss. Some dresses were loose and flowing inn toga style while others were kept short and sweet, exposing a shoulder.Designer Alber Elbaz offered heightened glamour with shimmery dresses, ruffled sleeves and feathered skirts with a 20s feel. More than other big name brands, Lavin offers a sense of luxury and elegance in clothes that actually flatter the female form.
Louis Vuitton
There seemed to be no overarching theme to Marc Jacobs’s spring collection for Louis Vuitton except that it was bizarre. Translucent nurse uniforms covered brightly-colored strapless dresses and rosy pink stockings gave models a feverish look. Jacobs played a lot with layering of translucent and body-hugging fabrics in Easter egg colors but the most surprising elements were the LV handbags. Forget about the staid brown and gold bags of yesteryear – the new line pops with quirky color combinations in a wide variety of shapes.There were some more classic pieces such as a slim pencil skirts and layered knits, but they were few and far between.
Yohji Yamamoto
All the essential elements were there – black cotton ensembles cut into otherworldy silhouettes and feats of volume balanced with a bare aesthetic – yet Yohji’s latest creations had something new too. Most noticeably, the designer added florals and metallic silver to his dark palette, but he also turned up the volume with ruffled hoop skirts, draping and baggy, low-crotched pants.He also played with the simple silhouette, such as the just-comfortably-loose black top and pant ensemble with minimal detail in an Asian style. There was definitely a sense that Yohji is spreading his wings but he’s also staying true to his style.
Trends:
• Masculine meets feminine
• Volume, ruffles and fringe
• Vests and layering
• Vintage styling