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Milan Menswear Spring 2008
The men’s wear shows kicked off in Milan over the weekend, bringing us a glimpse of next spring’s polished looks and subtle details. Think lighter than this year, in both weight and color. Here’s a quick roundup of the major shows so far.For continuing coverage of all the spring shows, bookmark Blacks’s InFashion.
Burberry Prorsum
For most of us Burberry evokes a clean and classic feel, but that may soon change. Designer Christopher Bailey’s new spring 2008 collection is brightly colored and somewhat futuristic in its fabrication. Shiny, dropped crotch pants are paired with primary colored tops and military-style jackets. Some shirts and jackets are shown in a see-through plastic fabrication, shown in hot pinks and blues. Pants are short and sweaters are long and droopy. Gold is another theme, shown as a sequin jacket, a gold lame shirt or a gold snakeskin coat.Bailey has taken a strange turn this season and we’re eager to see if Burberry fans follow suit.
Calvin Klein Collection
Calvin Klein’s spring vision is marked by a beautiful washed palette and extreme minimalism that brings with it pieces such as collarless shirts and leather ankle boots completely void of ornamentation. Imagine watered down pastels – in the faintest of blue, peach and beige – on pants, suits and jackets that are fitted and marked with subtle details, such as a thin lapel or a necktie almost completely hidden in a front panel of fabric on a dress shirt.The scoop neck tee and comfortable tracksuit pant were probably the most iconic pieces, in their minimalism and athleticism. After all, these are two of the season’s most dominant themes.
Roberto Cavalli
Hail the European lounge lizard with his animal prints, metallic jackets, colorful, pocketed pants and leather loafers. Cavalli’s newest collection is a bold departure from the reserved lines we’ve seen from other designers this season. There were some outfits that went too far – yellow cargo pants with a yellow and brown dyed blouse and orange loafers, for example – but most pieces were rock and roll enough to be pulled off.
Dolce & Gabbana
Eyeliner, scarves and swagger underscored D&G’s take on urban combat gear. Although the show started off with a series of dapper tuxedos (short lapels and skinny ties), we were soon in an urban desert. Skin-tight cargo pants and shirts and jackets with epaulets, zippers and other military motifs proceeded barely-there camouflage swimwear.Near the end of the show, D&G showed shorts and button-down shirts is wildly clashing prints that seemed out of place with the rest of the collection. In accessories, the team emphasized bulky natural-colored scarves, man sandals and sunglasses, which could easily become a staple for the season.
Emporio Armani
We have two words for you and they’re not good: parachute pants. Armani is all about the pants this season, showing parachute pants with buttons along the slim-fitting calves, and wide-legged pants slit open at the ankle. These designer trousers sat high on the waist and were shown with substantial, buckled belts.Armani also showed a variety of natural colored soft jackets that are sure to sell, but their subtle cut and soft colors were overtaken by dramatic bottoms.
The designer did hit the mark in terms of palette, however, choosing lots of dove whites and soft grays, as well as beautiful washed colors.
Gucci
Forget fall colors– Gucci’s gone stark white for spring. Slim white suits were paired with black collared shirts and simple white leather dance shoes. Checkered suits and pants were another dominant theme, worn golf style with a hat or rock style, with a leather jacket.The best outfits were chic urban looks with a punk edge, in black, white and red. Black leather pants were shown with a tee featuring silver graphics, and white high-tops with red trim.
Slim pants in orange, yellow or Kelly green also offered a refreshing mix when shown with leather motorcycle jackets in silver, black and candy apple red.
Marni
Minimal, somber, and dare we say geeky? The Marni man is pensive this spring, dressed mostly in grays and navy blue, in simple and unadorned pieces. Boxy shorts and tops are shown with sandals, and sometime black socks. There were a few black and white patterned tops and bright blue shorts, but otherwise the collection stayed in its gray palette. Although Marni clearly hit on this season’s minimal theme, the subtle details were just too subtle.
Prada
After Burberry, Prada looks downright somber this season, but in truth the brand shined with its fine tailoring and masculine accessories – even if the collection was mostly gray. The show opened with a one-buttoned, gray jacket, shown with matching single pleat pants and chunky gladiator sandals, in a look of minimal elegance. Then Prada cycled into sleeker looks, fitted pants and knits until we reached a strange peak of large prints and ’70s cuts. Large black and blue checked trousers strutted out with a matching short-sleeve shirt and aviator-style glasses.The finish was in the accessories, with large leather cuffs featuring antique watches, a line of colorful eyewear and those enviable Spartan sandals.
Versace
The new Versace man is pared down. He’s trim and understated, minimal in buttons, collars and colors. After a parade of handsome clothing in white, black, navy and gray, you’d almost do a double take when seeing Donatella Versace appear onstage. “What happened to bright, the loud, the Versace?” you might ask. Apparently she’s taken with one-button, tailored suits, light gray suede shoes and short, white leather jackets with little detail.That doesn’t mean that she completely threw out the brand’s signature eye-catching style. There were flashes of candy apple red, most notably on a shiny leather jacket shown with white trousers. There was also the anomaly of sleeveless, cowl neck tops, which are risky -- even for a Versace man.
Trends:
• White suits
• Washed colors
• Skinny ties
• Short lapels
• Gladiator sandals
• Military details
• Tailored trousers
• Collarless shirts